THE TICKLIST: #13 – Hard Sport, Highball Bouldering and Horrendous Crack Climbing – UKC News

In this week’s Ticklist, we take a look at some hard sport ascents, Barbara Zangerl’s ascent of Greenspit and the usual hard bouldering.

Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit

Babsi Zangerl has climbed Didier Berthod’s desperate 8b crack line, Greenspit, in Valle dell’Orco. She is the first woman to repeat the stunning route, which was first climbed in 2003 with pre-placed gear and then again in 2005 where Berthod placed all the gear on lead.

The route took Babsi four days in total. Extra time was needed to strip the route between attempts so that she could place all the gear on lead.

Babsi is one of the most accomplished trad climbers in the world, having made ascents of Prinzip Hoffnung (E9/10 8b), Muy Caliente (E10), three free climbs on El Capitan and the renowned ‘Alpine Trilogy.’

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Niall McNair climbs The Young

Niall McNair has made a rare ascent of Andy Earl’s The Young (Font 8A) at  Callaly, Northumberland. He’s currently on a mission to tick the ‘Earl Trilogy,’ from which he’s already ticked The Dark Side at Back Bowden, leaving him with The Prow at  Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

He first attempted the Young last year but shortly after had an accident with a machete at work, leaving him with a severed tendon in one finger. Unsure whether he would be able to climb again, Niall set to work on specific training and it’s been quite a turnaround!

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9a+/9b for Jonathan Siegrist

35-year-old American climber Jonathan Siegrist has made the first ascent of Nu World and could be in the 9a+/9b range. The route is on a limestone crag near Las Vegas and Siegrist has described the route as ‘without question’ one of his hardest. He is now working on a direct finish.

Siegrist has previously climbed two other 9bs with ascents of La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, and Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain, US.

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Another 9a for Tom Bolger

Earlier this month, we reported that Tom Bolger had climbed Gancho Perfecto (9a+) at Margalef. He’s now followed this up with an ascent of Víctima Perfecta on the same wall: Finestra. He began his day by attempting the route Mejorando Imagen, a bouldery 9a at the same crag.

Tom wrote on his Instagram: ‘[I] set my sights on the last combo that I had left undone, making the most of the run of current and great conditions out here I surprised myself clipping the chains! Awesome feelings, sometimes when you have been climbing for a long time it’s hard to notice those somewhat small gains that are being made but finally after a few years of feeling pretty stagnant I feel that it’s coming together!’

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Jimmy Webb on form

Jimmy Webb has made the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods’ Dicktopia (Font 8C) at Camp Dick, Colorado. In the past year, Jimmy has climbed five 8Cs and two 8C+s with ascents of Poison the Well in Brione and Off the Wagon Sit in Valle Bavona. He has spent the last few months sport climbing but is now gearing up for some hard bouldering projects around Lake Tahoe, so watch this space…

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Adam Ondra on a new 9a

Adam Ondra has created a new 9a by missing out two artificial holds at Massone, Italy. The original route was named Atene and Adam’s new version is called Atene Natural. He had tried the route several times over the years on every trip to Arco, although never made it through the crux section.

You can watch Adam’s new natural route in the video below:

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