THE TICKLIST: #12 – Hard Bouldering Repeats and more MacLeod Trad – UKC News

This week’s Ticklist covers some hard bouldering repeats from around the world and a scary trad video from Mr MacLeod:

Font 8B+ for Marine Thevenet

French climber Marine Thevenet has climbed her first Font 8B+ with an ascent of New Base Line in Magic Wood, Switzerland. The problem was originally graded 8C in 2002 by Bernd Zangerl but has settled at 8B+ in the years since. Marine’s ascent was the sixth by a woman after Shauna Coxsey, Anna Stöhr, Alex Puccio, Mile Heyden and Linda Sjödin.

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No Kpote Only for Nico Pelorson

In January 2019, barefoot climber Charles Albert made the first ascent of No Kpote Only at  Rocher Brûlé, Fontainebleau. He suggested Font 9A for the problem, which would have been the second climb with that grade in the world (after Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams), although subsequent ascentionists – who have worn shoes – have suggested a downgrade. Ryohei Kameyama repeated the climb and suggested it could be nearer Font 8C+.

Nico Pelorson has now repeated the climb and suggested the grade could be ‘solid 8C,’ with slightly different beta and climbing shoes…

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VIDEO: Dave MacLeod Repeating Iain Small’s The End of Arms (E8 6c)

Last week, we reported on Dave MacLeod’s impressive E8 spree during which he ticked five E8s. Dave has just released a video of his ascent of Iain Small’s The End of Arms (E8 6b) at  Binnein Shuas.

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Jack Palmieri on form

British boulderer Jack Palmieri has been mopping up hard problems all over the north of England. In between showing Jim Pope the beta for everything, he’s made quite a few hard ascents himself. Throughout September and the start of October, he spent a lot of time in the Lake District ticking off problems such as Colonel Hathi (8A+) at Swarthbeck Gill, Impropa Flip Flopera (8A+) and Final Flip Flopera (8B) at  The Bowderstone, and Stellar Dweller at  Sampson’s Stones.

At  Kilnsey, he ticked off Diluvian (8B), Primitive Notion (8A+), End Game (8B) and Antediluvian (8B) in the space of two weeks. Check out his Instagram page for an absurd amount of high-end British bouldering.

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Rocky Mountain Bouldering

Last week we reported that Matt Fultz had repeated Daniel Woods’ Hypnotized Minds (Font 8C+) and this week he’s ticked another 8C with an ascent of Drew Ruana’s Echalo. The line at Clear Creek Canyon adds a sit start to a Daniel Woods’ Font 8B+ put up 15-years ago.

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